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Faking Fortuny Delphos Pleats | History of Fashion Design

Faking Fortuny Delphos Pleats

Faking Fortuny “Delphos” Pleats: The Quick and Dirty Method

taraandlorrainet Lorraine Pettit

1. Choose a very thin silky fabric of either natural or synthetic fiber.Get more than you think you will need for both length and breadth,since pleating reduces the width considerably,and some length is lost to the gathering process.


2. Hand gather the two ends of the fabric tightly into small irregular pleats, and stitch the ends so they cannot come undone through much pulling and prodding.


3. Using two people,or one person and a stationary hook,twist the fabric very tightly until it starts twisting back on itself like a rope.Keep twisting until it forms into tight coils.

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4. Stitch the ends of the coils into place temporarily so that they cannot unwind during boiling.


5. Boil the fabric on the stove or in a dye vat for approximately 10 minutes.


6. Allow to cool until safe to handle.


7. Wring to remove excess water. If necessary, untwist and retwist. Microwave on high in one or two minute increments until you notice dry spots. Watch fabric closely during this step, as it is possible to burn the fabric. Use care when removing fabric as it will be steaming.


8. Try to keep your fabric as tightly coiled, as possible, and hang up to dry for about 24 hours.To dry more quickly,take a nylon stocking (an old pair of pantyhose works fine),cut off the toe,and encase your still-twisted fabric into the stocking,rather like a sausage.Knot the ends.Throw into the dryer with large towels.

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44478_12 flute3 Fortuny style pleating done for UAF’s The Magic Flute

9.After drying,stitch normally into simple dresses or scarves,but do not press.
Remember to always re-coil dress after washing, and keep dress in coiled shape during storage to retain pleats. This makes excellent garments for travel since they fit into small places and are deliberately wrinkled.


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