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17teenth Century Costume and Accessories at the V&A | History of Fashion Design

17teenth Century Costume and Accessories at the V&A

The V&A Photos have been removed at the request of the Manager of the Picture Library of  the V&A Margaret Layton’s Jacket & Portrait, The Jacket dates from 1610, the portrait is c. 1620.
Needle Lace Border, 1600-1620, Italy.

Woman’s Informal at home jacket, 1600-1625, Ivory silk and linen with a silver stripe, England.  Because of it’s loose cut this type of garment could be worn during pregnancy.

Woman’s Coif (Cap) 1600-1625, Linen, Silk black work, and silver gilt thread, England.

Hand Knitted Jacket c. 1625-1650 in silk and silver-gilt wrapped silk, lined with linen.  This is a very expensive but very informal at home garment for either a man or woman.  The Globe Theatre made a jacket similar to this for a production (see at right).

Hunting Coat, satin embroidered with silk, Mughal court (India), Early 17th Century.  This coat shows influence from Iran (the cut) and China (embroidery design) and was made by Gujarati craftsmen in chainstitch. The coat would originally have had a fur tippet added around the neck.

Woman’s Smock, c. 1630, Linen embroidered with dark red silk with some motifs taken from the book “A schole-house for the needle” by Richard Schorleyker, 1624, England.  Since most smocks were undecorated, this is thought to be a “lying in” smock, used by a woman to receive guests, while resting in bed after delivering a new baby.

Man’s formal Summer Doublet, 1635-1640, of glazed linen embroidered with linen thread, England.

Man’s “nightcap”, 1600-1624, of linen with colored silk and silver gilt embroidery, silver-gilt bobbin lace and spangles, England. Worn indoors during the day at home by rich men, even when receiving informal guests and inferiors, contrary to their name they were not usually worn to bed.

Man’s Silk satin doublet and breeches, 1630-1640, decorated with stamping and pinking, and trimmed with silk braid and ribbon, England

Man’s falling band lace collar, 1630-1640, Probably made in Honiton, Devon, England.

Pair of Embroidered Leather Gloves, 1660’s, with silver gilt thread embroidery and bobbin lace, England.

Red Lace border, 1650-1680, made with silk cords and linen thread probably dyed with cochineal and madder, England.

Buff leather doublet with silver trim such as was popular with officers in the English Civil war

Wedding suit of heavy silver embroidery worn by James II, 1673. This suit is missing it’s original waistcoat which would probably have been of a contrasting rich color and fabric.

late 17th Century shoes.

Man’s bias cut stocking, 1660-1670, linen embroidered with silk, England.  This is an example of “cut hose”, made of woven material cut on the bias to allow stretch, with lacing at the ankle for a tight fit.

Man’s “Nightgown” in miniature, 1690-1700, French or Italian figured satin lined with Chinese blue silk damask, England.  A Nightgown (aka Banyan) was worn indoors as very informal day or night wear, often over a shirt and breeches, but not to bed.  Cut similar to a kimono, they are thought to be adaptations of these garments based on Asian imports.

Woman’s nightgown and petticoat in miniature, 1690-1700, French or Italian figured satin lined with Chinese blue silk damask, England.  See above for more details.

Miniature dress of a lady, 1690-1700, showing a Mantua over visible stays in silver.  Stays and petticoat were a lady’s first layer of visible outer wear, not underwear, as in the 19th century.

Carved lime wood cravat by Grinling Gibbons, c. 1690, England. Horace Walpole, (called the “Minister of Taste” in the 18th Century) acquired it as a fine example of the late wood carver Grinling Gibbons (1648-1721) best work, however he also liked to wear it as a joke.  In 1769 he wore it while receiving distinguished foreign visitors, and wrote “The French servants stared and firmly believed that this was the dress of an English country gentleman”.


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